Bali Trekking – Subak System

As tour operators, we are often asked to focus on iconic sites that can be captured in a single stunning photograph. But some of the most fascinating cultural heritage experiences go far beyond a single image. The Subak system in Bali is a perfect example of this kind of immersive cultural landscape that is far more satisfying, enriching and rewarding. This is one of the locations we integrate into our Bali Trekking tours.

Trails of Bali - Great scenery on the trekking tours we developed in remote Bali

Subak System – Cultural Immersion

When visitors travel to Bali’s highlands, they are greeted by a mesmerizing sight: thousands of hectares of lush green paddy fields cascading in terraces from the upper reaches of volcanoes down to deep valleys below. These rice terraces appear as if they have been meticulously sculpted from the mountainside, creating a living work of art that changes with the seasons and the growth cycles of the rice.

The success of this agricultural system is due in large part to Bali’s natural abundance of water resources. The island is blessed with 150 rivers and streams that provide water year-round to irrigate the rice fields. However, the true ingenuity of the Subak system lies in how the Balinese people have managed and distributed this water through a complex network of canals, dams, and tunnels.

Historical records show that the development of this irrigation system dates back over a millennium. Ancient inscriptions have documented the digging of an irrigation tunnel as far back as 944 AD. Over the centuries, this system has evolved and expanded, but its core principles have remained largely unchanged.

Why the Subak System is a UNESCO Cultural Heritage destination

What sets the Subak system apart from other irrigation methods is its democratic and cooperative nature. Unlike many ancient agricultural systems that were managed by royal decree, the Subak is primarily controlled by village cooperatives. Each farmer is a member of a Subak, which is responsible for managing the water distribution to the rice fields fed by a single dam. This grassroots approach to water management has created a strong sense of community and shared responsibility among the farmers.

The organizational structure of the Subak system is hierarchical yet inclusive. At the lowest level, individual farmers are members of a Subak or a tempek (a subdivision of larger Subaks). The head of each Subak, known as the Klian Subak, is elected by its members. These Subaks are then linked to mountain temples, or pura masceti, which in turn fall under the jurisdiction of one of two lake temples: Pura Batu Kau in West Bali and Pura Ulun Danau, which coordinates irrigation in the north, east, and south of the island.

One of the most fascinating aspects of the Subak system is how it intertwines agricultural practices with spiritual beliefs. Water temples hold festivals every 105 days, corresponding to the rice-growing season in Bali. These ceremonies not only mark important agricultural milestones but also serve to reinforce the spiritual connection between the farmers, their land, and their deities. The timing of these festivals also determines when canal sluices are opened and closed, ensuring that plantings are staggered and water is allocated efficiently and equitably.

The decision-making process within the Subak system is remarkably democratic. Every major decision is discussed at members’ meetings and must be unanimously agreed upon before being implemented. This collaborative approach extends to planting schedules, with farmers starting their planting in a consecutive manner every 10 days, ensuring a continuous and manageable harvest cycle.

The Subak system is a prime example of the Balinese Tri Hita Karana cosmological doctrine in action. This philosophy emphasizes the importance of maintaining harmonious relationships between humans and the divine, humans and their fellow humans, and humans and nature. The Subak system embodies these principles by fostering a deep respect for the natural world, promoting community cooperation, and integrating spiritual practices into daily agricultural life.

UNESCO recognized the profound cultural and ecological significance of the Subak system by designating it as a World Heritage site on June 20, 2012, in St. Petersburg, Russia. The official UNESCO description highlights the unique qualities of this cultural landscape:

“The cultural landscape of Bali consists of five rice terraces and their water temples that cover 19,500 ha. The temples are the focus of a cooperative water management system of canals and weirs, known as subak, that dates back to the 9th century. Included in the landscape is the 18th-century Royal Water Temple of Pura Taman Ayun, the largest and most impressive architectural edifice of its type on the island. The subak reflects the philosophical concept of Tri Hita Karana, which brings together the realms of the spirit, the human world and nature. This philosophy was born of the cultural exchange between Bali and India over the past 2,000 years and has shaped the landscape of Bali. The subak system of democratic and egalitarian farming practices has enabled the Balinese to become the most prolific rice growers in the archipelago despite the challenge of supporting a dense population.“[1]

This UNESCO designation not only recognizes the historical and cultural importance of the Subak system but also serves to protect and preserve this unique agricultural heritage for future generations.

Visitors to Bali – experience the culture, history and scenery

From a tourism perspective, the Subak system offers a unique opportunity for visitors to engage with Bali’s living cultural heritage. Our tours focused on the Subak system can significantly reduce tourism leakage – the phenomenon where tourism revenue leaves the local economy – by promoting direct engagement with local communities and traditional practices.

When tourists participate in Subak-focused tours, they are often guided by local farmers or community members who have intimate knowledge of the system. This direct interaction ensures that tourism revenue flows directly into the local community rather than being siphoned off by large, external tour operators. Furthermore, these tours often include visits to local markets, participation in traditional ceremonies, and even hands-on experiences in the rice fields, all of which contribute to the local economy and help preserve traditional ways of life.

Connection and experience

Moreover, Subak tours provide a deeper, more authentic connection to the location than typical beach or resort experiences. Visitors gain insight into the complex interplay of agriculture, spirituality, and community that shapes Balinese culture. This deeper understanding fosters a greater appreciation for the destination and its people, potentially leading to more responsible and sustainable tourism practices.

The Subak system also offers opportunities for educational tourism. Students and researchers from around the world come to Bali to study this unique water management system, contributing to the local economy while advancing our understanding of sustainable agricultural practices.

The Subak system of Bali is far more than just an irrigation method…It is a living testament to the Balinese people’s ingenuity, spirituality, and commitment to community. By recognizing and promoting this cultural landscape, we not only preserve a unique agricultural heritage but also foster more sustainable and culturally enriching forms of tourism. As visitors walk among the terraced rice fields, participate in water temple ceremonies, and engage with local farmers, they become part of the ongoing story of the Subak – a story that has been unfolding for over a thousand years and continues to shape the land and people of Bali today.

[1]UNESCO World Heritage Centre. “Cultural Landscape of Bali Province: the Subak System as a Manifestation of the Tri Hita Karana Philosophy.” https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1194/